MALLIKA

The Jamdani or Uppada art of weaving originated in Bangladesh. In the eighteenth century, the unique style of weaving was brought to southern India and established in the Uppada village of the East Godavari district, in Andhra Pradesh, where almost forty percent of the weavers involved in this art are women. Jamdani weaving dates back as far as 300 years, and has blended well with local cultures across the Indian sub-continent. The weaving of this saree can go up to two months at a time. 

The diaphanous Uppada Jamdani silk has a very similar texture to muslin. This style incorporates the weaving techniques that are implemented in order to weave muslin cloth, using gray and white threads. Jamdani integrates a mixture of cotton and gold threads to accentuate the grand nature of the saree. Due to the delicate persona of the silk, the saree can drape easily, giving it an ethereal flow. The fine silk that is usually from the central parts of Karnataka accompanied with fine gold and silver zari (often dipped in gold) makes for a lighter, yet majestic saree. 

Dhakai Jamdanis have colorful designs including symbols of longevity and prosperity such as mangos and jasmine flowers. Tangail Jamdanis have mono-chromatic borders that contrast with the body and pallu which tend to be in a starkly different hue. Shantipur Jamdani has small geometric designs, such as checks, circles, or stripes. They may even have a texture-supported design made by the layering of thread and yarn. Recently, tie-dye has been a popular design choice for the pallu of the saree.

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